Sunday, December 4, 2016

Mary Thompson Property at Gettysburg: Lee's True Headquarters




Aerial Photograph of the historically significant property of Widow Mary Thompson (2014)
Courtesy: Garry Adelman and The Civil War Trust

Daniel Skelly climbed a tree for a better view of the events taking place to the west of his hometown of Gettysburg, Pennsylvania.  Skelly, along with other townspeople made their way to Seminary Ridge on the western edge of town.   On the morning of July 1st, 1863 this group witnessed the beginning engagements of what would become the most deadly battle during the American Civil War.  Much like the First Battle of Bull Run, where citizens populated surrounding hills to witness the fighting, the spectators at Gettysburg had a short-lived experience.  Skelly, enjoying his “good view of the ridge west,” scattered with the others once confederate artillery opened; one shot particularly sent Skelly into retreat when it skimmed the top of his tree.[1]  Just a few yards south of Skelly stood a one and a half story stone building.  The building was the home of Mary Thompson.  Exactly one hundred and one years later, on July 1st, 2014, President of the Civil War Trust, Jim Lighthizer, standing near the same location as Skelly, described this stone house as being a site of “indisputable [historical] significance.”[2]
The Mary Thompson House and the property surrounding it have a diverse and exciting history, yet only one book has been published on its story.  Evidence exists which both support and contradict whether Confederate General Robert E. Lee took this house as his headquarters during the Battle of Gettysburg.  The misunderstandings came to light and the debate thickened as The Civil War Trust planned to preserve the property.   Based on a new interpretation of primary sources, the latest secondary literature, personal examination of the property, and meeting with the author of the only publication on the topic, we see that the property where the Mary Thompson House stands was the headquarters of General Lee during all three days of the Battle of Gettysburg.
Formed out of the western portion of York County and named after President John Adams, Adams County, Pennsylvania was established in 1800.  Fifteen years before the formation of Adams County, James Getty, a Revolutionary War veteran, purchased a plot of land at a sheriff’s auction that encompassed 116 acres that surrounded an intersection of roads.  Getty laid out 210 lots on this property and in January of 1786, established the town of Gettysburg.  Upon the founding of Adams County, Gettysburg became the county seat, necessitating expansion and an increase in roads which provided access to all parts of the county.  Today and during the Battle of Gettysburg, ten major road systems intersect at the town.  One of these roadways served as a toll road by the Gettysburg and Petersburg Turnpike Company in 1812.  The road, stretching west out of Gettysburg ran through the property of Reverend David McConaughy.  This roadway would be the approaching route of the Confederate Army in 1863.[3] 
McConaughy transferred this property to three men; David Zeigler, Michael C. Clarkson, and John Fuller in 1827.  In 1832, Clarkson became the sole proprietor when he bought out Fuller and Zeigler.[4]  It was under Clarkson, a well-to-do businessman and political ally to Thaddeus Stevens, that the property had a one and a half story stone building constructed.  The inscription “1779” is etched into a brick in the foundation of the building, yet no evidence suggests that 1779 is the year of its construction.  Rather, construction of the house took place in 1834. Tax records from 1834 include a notation in that year stated that “one new house has been constructed” on the property of Clarkson.[5] 
Mary Thompson was a tenant of Clarkson.  Clarkson became the victim of financial hardship, defaulting on an almost $2,000 note in 1840.[6]  The following years saw no improvement on his finances, culminating in a notice served by Sheriff Francis Bream on August 14th, 1844.[7] According to court documents, the Court of Common Pleas ordered Bream to seize all “goods and chattels, lands and tenements of Michael C. Clarkson.”[8]  A sheriff’s auction followed the seizure of the property.  The result was the purchase of what was called “Tract 3”, the stone house and three acres of land, “by Thaddeus Stevens as a trustee of Mary Thompson” for $16 (Figure 1).[9]  The transaction took place in this manner because it was illegal for a married woman to hold a property title in Pennsylvania in 1846; Thompson had an estranged husband and fear of his return may have led Stevens to buy the property.  Mary Thompson would own this property in trust until her death in 1873.
On July 1st, 1863, Robert E. Lee and his Army of Northern Virginia encamped a few miles west of Gettysburg, in Cashtown.  In the early hours of the same day, Confederate forces moved east, engaging with cavalry units of the Army of the Potomac a short distance outside of Gettysburg.  One misconception of the battle is that the Confederates were heading to Gettysburg for shoes.  However, this is incorrect; the major intersection of roads led to the two armies into a collision at Gettysburg. 
Road Map of Gettysburg. Chambersburg Pike highlighted in red, Thompson property in yellow.


Mary Thompson’s property played witness to all three days of fighting during the battle.  On July 1st, 1863, the property was the location of both the biggest success and failure for the Army of the Potomac.  The unfinished railroad cut that line the northern edge of the property was where the 6th Wisconsin of the Iron Brigade, under Lt. Col. Rufus Dawes, seized the railroad cut in well-documented and successful charge in which almost 200 soldiers died.[10]  After the
Levi Mumper's sketch facing west of charge of 6th Wisconsin
from Thompson property.
Courtesy: William Frassanito and Allen Guelzo
Confederates outflanked the Union, a disorganized retreat began through the town of Gettysburg.  As the sun lowered, so too did the Confederate lines on remaining Union forces west of Gettysburg.  Just a few yards north of the Thompson House in a deep railroad cut, Union troops ran the gauntlet in an attempt to retreat.  Surrounded on both sides, one Union officer remarked that “every man who did his duty was either killed, wounded, or captured.”[11]  This mass capture of Union troops is what Tim Smith “ranks as one of the most productive days in the history of the Army of Northern Virginia.”[12]  The Thompson House then served as “a fortress, a field hospital, and the nerve center” for Confederate operations for the remainder of the battle. [13]  Union artillery placed on the property on the first day was replaced with Confederate artillery for the remaining two days of the battle.  Couriers transported messages to and from Lee at the Thompson property and where he would make historically significant decisions, such as “Pickett’s Charge.” 
Looking west from the Thompson Property.
Courtesy: Kyle Martin (November, 2016)

Photograph of the Thompson Property in 1903, after the restoration
following the fire in comparison to the preservation .
Courtesy: Kyle Martin (November, 2016)
            After the battle, Mary Thompson lived the remainder of her life in the stone house.  She died on May 25th, 1873.  In another auction of the property on December 15th, 1888, Philip Hennig bought the property for $740.[14]  Hennig never actually lived in the house, instead rented it out to tenants.  It was under Hennig’s ownership, however, when the house caught fire in 1896.  According to an article in the Gettysburg Compiler, the fire did little damage to the structure of the building, leaving the “walls… in good condition,” and the furniture on the first story saved.[15]  Neither tenants were present at the onset of the fire, nor was the cause of the fire known.[16]  The house was insured under Hennig and completely restored. 
            Hennig died in 1918, the property then passed to his widow who sold the property to Clyde F. Daley on July 13th, 1921.[17]  It is at this time when commercialization of property takes place.  Daley created “Lee Campground” which provided rooms, a bath shop, souvenir shop, and museum.[18]  Upon his retirement in 1845, Daley sold the property to Eric F. Larson, a licensed battlefield guide.  It remained under private ownership until 2014.
            After the fire, a movement to challenge the credibility of the Thompson House being Lee’s Headquarters began to come to the forefront and would continue into the 21st Century.  The Gettysburg Compiler, covering the fire, stated that “popular tradition has… this building” as Lee’s headquarters, but “there seems to be considerable doubt as to the fact.”[19]  Tim Smith is critical of these article as well as the sources used by the article, which consist of multiple guides of the park and civilians using second-hand information.[20]  Smith assesses that “many writers and historians have put more credence in these secondary sources than in the first hand accounts written during and shortly after the Civil War.”[21]
            One account that comes under scrutiny is Henry S. Moyer’s, “General Lee’s Headquarters at Gettysburg, Penna,” that the Gettysburg Compiler published on March 30th, 1910.  Moyer published the article as a pamphlet in 1911.  Moyer concluded “that the facts are against this house or any other house or houses upon this field being designated as General Lee’s Headquarters at Gettysburg.”[22]  He based his conclusion on primarily two controversial pieces of evidence.  Moyer cited an interaction between Government Historian, John B. Bachelder, and General Robert E. Lee.  Moyer stated that “a good friend” of his spoke with Bachelder, who reported that Lee stated, “My headquarters were in tents, in an apple orchard, back of the seminary along Chambersburg pike.”[23]  Smith points out that this conversation between Bachelder and Lee took place thirty years prior and his friend who reported this to Moyer went unnamed.  Further, Smith explains that Bachelder did compile accounts from participants of the war, yet nothing exists that would suggest he interviewed Robert E. Lee.[24]  Moyer also used a controversial interview he conducted with an unnamed “old lady” when he visited the Thompson House.  Leading the reader to believe that this “old lady” was Mary Thompson, Moyer stated that this woman “had occupied the house during the whole of the three days battle and that General Lee had never been in the house.”[25]  There is one glaring problem with this statement; Moyer identified 1874 as the date he visited the Thompson House, Mary Thompson died in 1873.  This, on top of the fact that Moyer admitted, by force, that he did not know the name of this old lady shortly after his pamphlet’s publication, dismantles his argument that Lee did not take the Thompson House as his property.[26]
            Other evidence exists that suggest the same conclusion that Mary Thompson’s house was not Lee’s Headquarters during the battle.  In 1886, Confederate General Armistead L. Long published a memoir of his experiences during the war.  Long, a member of Lee’s staff at Gettysburg, identified “trees of an apple orchard” as the “bivouac.”[27]  In a response to Moyer’s article, Vina C. Weirick strongly argued that the location of Lee’s Headquarters was not close to the Thompson property.  In her article in the Gettysburg Compiler, Weirick placed Lee in “tents pitched… [in] apple orchards” between Seminary Ridge and Oak Hill.[28]  She further identified the house of an old lady named Mrs. Marshall in the same “space”.[29]  There is some confusion to Weirick’s description.  The Thompson House is located on the land between Seminary Ridge and Oak Hill.  Also, the Thompson property had an orchard at the time of the battle.  It is feasible to surmise that Weirick did not realize she was referring to the Mary Thompson property.  In 1932, W.C. Storrick established that Lee’s “Army Headquarters [were] in some tents in an apple orchard between the Seminary building and the Chambersburg Pike.”[30]  This would place the headquarters on the opposite side of Chambersburg Pike than the Thompson House. 
            The reputation of General Robert E. Lee must be taken into context with much of the secondary evidence provided to this point.  Colonel Walter H. Taylor provided just one example of how historical misconceptions stemmed from Lee’s reputation.  In 1877, Taylor published, Four Years with General Lee.  Taylor served as an adjutant general throughout most of the war with Lee.  His publication cited various situations in which Lee used tents as his headquarters rather than the comforts of a home.[31]  The reputation that Lee practiced “self-denial and abnegation,” taking the same risks and hardships of war as his soldiers lends credence to the argument that Lee did not use the Mary Thompson House as his headquarters.[32]  It is fair to attribute this concept to the reputation of Lee, but it does not stand on an evidentiary sound footing.  Allen Guelzo, historian at Gettysburg College, quotes Mary Thompson as complaining that “All night long ossifers [sic] was comin’ and going,’ getting ready to fight in the mornin’.”[33]  This suggests a presence of Lee and his officers at the Thompson House.
            The evidence supporting Lee making his headquarters at the Thompson property is overwhelming.  For the first several decades following the battle, it was a common understanding that the Mary Thompson House was Lee’s Headquarters during the battle.  In September of 1863, a correspondent with the Lutheran and Missionary newspaper interviewed Mary Thompson who stated that Lee “occupied her house from Wednesday evening, July 1st, until Friday night;” all three days of the battle.[34]  Famed Civil War Photographer, Matthew Brady, labeled a picture of the Mary Thompson House as “Lee’s Headquarters” in a photo taken just days after the battle.  On April 20th,
Matthew Brady Photograph, "Lee's Headquarters",
taken July, 1863.
Courtesy: Library of Congress
1920, an article recalls the return of Union General Herman Haupt accompanied by his daughter and their visit to see Mary Thompson.  In the exchange, Thompson “told them how well she remembered and would never forget General Lee sitting on a chair at a window she pointed to reading his Bible.”[35]  Lee’s gentlemanly demeanor is also documented in the interview with Thompson, who stated she “never heard any profane or improper language from him.”[36]  Fifty-four years after the battle, one of Lee’s servants returned to Gettysburg.  While visiting the Thompson property, the unnamed servant stated that is was “possible” that Lee occupied the stone house.[37] At the 50th Anniversary of the battle, a former courier and scout of Lee, M.T. Bender, wrote that four soldiers stood guard the stone house in which he “delivired [sic] messages” to Lee.[38]   
Brady Photograph Comparison.
Photography assisted the Civil War Trust in ensuring the structure
of the house stood as it did in 1863.
Courtesy: Kyle Martin (November, 2016)

            The evidence that suggests Lee did not take the Thompson House or property as his headquarters ignore the writing of Michael Jacobs, a soldier who was at Gettysburg during the battle.  Jacobs provided an account that supports Lee using the Thompson House as his headquarters in his publication in October of 1863.  Jacobs described the house as “on the crest of the Seminary Ridge, where the Chambersburg Pike crosses it.”[39]  He continued that after the retreat of the Union troops to the south of Gettysburg, Lee selected this house as his headquarters as it held “an elevated position… and being at a safe distance from our guns.”[40]  According to Jacobs, Lee took his meals and “lodged all night” when not inspecting the Confederate lines.[41]  This publication also shed light on Lee being in the house and interacting with Thompson.  Jacobs stated that “Mrs. Thompson testifies to the gentlemanly deportment of Lee… but complains bitterly of robbery and general destruction.”[42]
            Evidence suggests that General Robert E. Lee used the Thompson House and the surrounding tract of land as his headquarters throughout the battle of Gettysburg.  On the Gettysburg National Military Park property just across Chambersburg Pike from the Thompson House is a vertical artillery cannon barrel.  This is a marker for officer headquarters during the battle.  On the base, an inscription reads, “MY HEAD QUARTERS WERE IN TENTS IN AN APPLE ORCHARD BACK OF THE SEMINARY ALONG THE CHAMBERSBURG PIKE.”  The inscription is the same seen in Moyer’s questionable article. 
            The Thompson property holds historical value, yet is not a part of the Gettysburg National Military Park.  Several reasons exist for this failure.  First, during the early 1900’s when the park was taking shape, the park was overwhelmed with the undertaking.[43]  In 1907, during the time of expanding the park, the local sheriff charged and arrested tenant Emaline Feister and for “keeping a bawdy house… for the practice of fornication… and disturbance of the neighborhood.”[44]  Basically, Feister operated a brothel.  Smith attributes this bad press to the property being “looked over” and remaining in private hands.[45]  The Gettysburg National Military Park Commission in 1905 opined that “the acquisition of any further extensive tracts of land… would be a waste of public funds.”[46]  The official Gettysburg Auto Tour Map oddly avoids the Thompson property, instead crossing the railroad cut further to the West, the location of the 6th Wisconsin’s success. Also adding to the controversy, Gettysburg is a northern battlefield in a northern state.   The National Park Service
Official Auto Tour Map of Gettysburg National
Military Park.
Edited by: Kyle Martin
tends to avoid negative the failures of the Union.  Instead of interpreting the largest mass capture of Union troops on the property, a drive by of the property lends only an opportunity to point out the location of Lee’s Headquarters (Figure 10).  Lastly, as modern newspaper reports present, the property remaining in private hands provided economic benefits to the area.  The property, as of 2013 tax year, generated $11,691 to Gettysburg Borough, $12,395 to Adams County, and $34,228 to the Gettysburg Area School District in property tax.[47]  Gettysburg Borough Council Finance Chairman John Butterfield lamented the loss of revenue, stating it would “be very difficult to recoup” the loss tax revenue.[48]
The town of Gettysburg thrives off tourism and the economic benefits that the battlefield provides.  This is evident in major anniversaries of the battle.  During the 50th Anniversary of the Battle of Gettysburg, Philip Hennig searched for veterans to find validation to support Lee making his headquarters at the Thompson property.  During the 100th Anniversary of the Battle of Gettysburg, the town searched for tourists.  The highest population of Gettysburg was in the decade of the 100th anniversary.  Hotel growth blossomed, employment increased, and the commercialization of Gettysburg boosted.  One thing remained consistent, the story of history that moved and continues to move people to the fields of Gettysburg. 

Out of the ten major roadways that enter Gettysburg, only one does not touch the protected National Military Park, York Pike.  This roadway features businesses, restaurants, and other commercial ventures on both sides.  Chambersburg Pike, where Lee and the Army of Northern Virginia made their initial approach into Gettysburg touches National Military Park land on both sides.  On January 7th, 2015 the Civil War Trust purchased the Thompson property.  Although still in the hands of an entity, the Trust “is the largest and most effective nonprofit organization devoted to preservation of America’s hallowed battlegrounds.”[49]   The Civil War Trust purchased and preserved the property for around six million dollars, a far cry from the cost in 1848.  Jim Lighthizer and the Civil War Trust’s objective is “to make it so that if Robert E. Lee rode up Chambersburg Pike on his horse, he’d know exactly where he was.”[50]  After 151 years of private ownership, the Thompson property has finally been preserved for future generations as a place of historical significance.
Digital image of completed Thompson/Dustman property.
Edited by: Kyle Martin
Courtesy: Garry Adelman and the Civil War Trust
From a private resident, to a brothel, to a major hotel, restaurant, and brewery, this property has a diverse and interesting history.  Mary Thompson’s property was the headquarters of General Robert E. Lee during the Battle of Gettysburg.  The question is not whether the stone house served as his actual headquarters, but was this area the location or what the Civil War Trust calls “the nerve center” for Confederate operations?[51]  Evidence that exists defends the affirmative.  The contradicting evidence has one constant theme; Lee and his staff populated and operated in and around the area of Mary Thompson’s house during all three days of the battle.  Primary sources provide evidence that Lee took his meals and slept in the Thompson House, but also had meetings and gave and received orders in or around the Apple Orchard where members of his staff pitched tents.  A fresh analysis of existing evidence leads to the conclusion that Lee set his headquarters for the bloodiest battle of the Civil War at the property purchased by Thaddeus Stevens in trust of Mary Thompson.






[1] Daniel Alexander Skelly, A Boy’s Experiences During The Battles of Gettysburg (Gettysburg, 1932), 10-11.
[2] Jarrad Hedes, “Civil War Trust Plans to Purchase Lee’s Headquarters,” Gettysburg Times (Gettysburg, PA), July 1st, 2014.
[3] Tim Smith, The Story of Lee’s Headquarters (Gettysburg, PA: Thomas Publications, 1995), 2.
[4] Jeffrey L. Patterson, Where Were Lee’s Headquarters During the Battle of Gettysburg, July 1st, 2nd, and 3rd, 1863? (Not Published: Adams County Historical Society, 1982), 3-12.
[5] Patterson, Where Were Lee’s Headquarters, 3-12.
[6] Smith, The Story of Lee’s Headquarters, 4.
[7] Appearance Docket, Volume T, Adams County Courthouse, 26.
[8] Deed Book Z, Adams County Courthouse, 466.
[9] Smith, The Story of Lee’s Headquarters, 5.
[10] Noah Andre Trudeau, Gettysburg: A Testing of Courage (New York: HarperCollins, 2002), 196.
[11] Smith, The Story of Lee’s Headquarters, 34.
[12] Ibid., 36.
[13] “Save Gettysburg: Lee’s Headquarters – One of America’s Most Significant Unprotected Sites,” The Civil War Trust, Accessed: 11-17-2016, http://www.civilwar.org/battlefields/gettysburg/gettysburg-2014/.
[14] Gettysburg Compiler, (Gettysburg, PA), Dec. 18th, 1888.
[15]Gettysburg Sentinel, (Gettysburg, PA), September 1st, 1896.
[16] Ibid.
[17] Smith, The Story of Lee’s Headquarters, 63.
[18] Ibid., 65.
[19] Gettysburg Compiler, (Gettysburg, PA), September 1st, 1896.
[20] Smith, The Story of Lee’s Headquarters, 57.
[21] Ibid.
[22] Henry S. Moyer, General Lee’s Headquarters at Gettysburg, Penna. (Allentown, 1911), 1.
[23] Moyer, General Lee’s Headquarters, 2.
[24] Smith, The Story of Lee’s Headquarters, 60.
[25] Moyer, General Lee’s Headquarters, 4.
[26] Smith, The Story of Lee’s Headquarters, 59.
[27] A.L. Long, Memoirs of Robert E. Lee, His Military and Personal History, (New York: J.M. Stoddart & Company, 1886), 277-278.
[28] “General Lee’s Headquarters,” Gettysburg Compiler, (Gettysburg, PA), August 3rd, 1910.
[29] “General Lee’s Headquarters,” August 3rd, 1910.
[30] W.C. Storrick, Gettysburg: The Place, The Battle, The Results, (Gettysburg: J. Horace McFarland Company, 1932), 134.
[31] Walter H. Taylor, Four Years with General Lee, (Bloomington: Indiana University Press, 1962), 35-37, 150, 154.
[32] Patterson, Where Were Lee’s Headquarters, 46.
[33] Allen C. Guelzo, Gettysburg: The Last Invasion, (New York: Alfred A. Knopf, 2013), 220.
[34] “The Rebel General in Chief,” Lutheran and Missionary (Philadelphia, PA), September 24th, 1863; Smith, The Story of Lee’s Headquarters, 73.
[35] Gettysburg Compiler, (Gettysburg, PA), April 20th, 1910.
[36] “The Rebel General in Chief,” September 24, 1863; Smith, The Story of Lee’s Headquarters, 73.
[37] Gettysburg Times, (Gettysburg, PA), June 9th, 1917.
[38] Smith, The Story of Lee’s Headquarters, 61.
[39] Michael Jacobs, “Later Rambles over the field of Gettysburg,” The United States Service Magazine, Volume I (New York: Charles B. Richardson, 1864), 66.
[40] Jacobs, “Later Rambles over the Field of Gettysburg,” 66.
[41] Ibid.
[42] Ibid.
[43] Tim Smith in discussion with Kyle Martin, November 5th, 2016.
[44] Gettysburg Compiler, (Gettysburg, Pa), June 5th 1907.
[45] Smith, The Story of Lee’s Headquarters, 57.
[46] Annual Reports of the Gettysburg National Military Park Commission to the Secretary of War 1893-1904 (Washington: Government Printing Office, 1905), 99.
[47] Hedes, “Civil War Trust Plans to Purchase Lee’s Headquarters.”
[48] Ibid.
[49] “About Us,” The Civil War Trust, Accessed: 11-17-2016, http://www.civilwar.org/aboutus/.
[50] Leah Polakoff, “Civil War Trust Announces Campaign to Restore Historic Gettysburg Headquarters,” Penn Live, (Adams County, Pennsylvania), July 1st, 2014.
[51] “Save Gettysburg,” The Civil War Trust, Accessed: 11-17-2016, http://www.civilwar.org/battlefields/gettysburg/gettysburg-2014/.

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